Quick, as in public-library-internet quick, report from Seattle

I’ve been here a week (well, five days) and am not unreasonably happy with the place. The weather has been knock-me-on-my-ass perfect and this is a really beautiful city, all green and hilly and water everywhere. Built form is, to my surprise (and not having been here since 1985), not remotely like nearby Vancouver but VERY much like Calgary, although Calgary wins (believe it or not) on the sprawl front, as this conurbation is endless and public transit rather terrible, especially for a city that’s so self-consciously “progressive.” Do I sound unhappy? Maybe a little- I’m not sure what the point was of this visit, idle curiosity aside, because Portland is cheaper, friendlier, and better designed (with much MUCH better transit) and Vancouver might be full of unfriendly ass-clowns but one doesn’t have to traverse US Customs to get there, and Vancouver has more and better cheap eats, more and MUCH cheaper sushi, and like Portland, better transit.

BUT I haven’t been having a bad time, I just needed to get some of the above off my chest because Seattle has a rep as some sort of eco-liberal paradise that I think is rather unearned. But one needs to travel and to experience places close up (and on foot as is my wont) to see things for one’s self and that’s what I’ve done on this trip, so, curiosity sated, I can talk about specs. But no pics for now, because my camera battery has died, but look for those after my return home Saturday, here, on facebook and at picasa.

What I’ve seen/done: Pike Place, the Experience Music Project, the Folk Life festival, a same-sex marriage rally downtown, the Space Needle, the Seattle Aquarium, the Science Center, a one-hour, very fantastic Harbor Cruise, the Burke Museum at the UW and its coffee exhibit, the neighbourhoods of downtown, Belltown, Capital Hill, and the U District, the main branch of the public library (right this second), and as coffee goes, two each of locations of Vivace and Stumptown (Stumptown wins) but also marvelous espresso at Top Pot Donuts. Good donuts too. Eats? Fantastic but pricey sushi at Shiro, teriyaki–THE cheap eat in Seattle–at several places, all very good and CHEAP, an amazing salmon sandwich at this tourist-trap-looking place near where I boarded on the cruise, good but not great tacos, and a bit of  crap too but mostly I’m happy and my tummy is too.

Seattle is ridiculously, cruelly hilly, so the workout is part of the experience and my legs and lungs thank me.

Ace Hotel is very nice; just ask for an interior room unless you like a combo of 2am drunkards and 4:30am garbage trucks outside your window. I changed rooms and am happy and well-rested, not sure what I’d be feeling now if I hadn’t. Also- glass transoms above all room doors=light at all hours. Sucks. I brought a sleep mask, thank God, and you don’t forget to either if you stay here. Upsides: cheap, friendly staff, spotless shared baths, and MAKE YOUR OWN WAFFLES (!!!) in the breakfast room.

Home Saturday (2 days from now) then Sunday is  LILAC FEST! See you there!