Spring is back (again), and a Starbucks experiment
Posted by John Manzo on April 27, 2008
What a day! After the grim last week (the cold and snow didn’t let up for a full seven days), we had some decent if a bit cool weather yesterday, and today is just- wow. Weather amnesia kicks in and I’m happy to be where I am, geographically and meteorologically speaking.
Tulips, daffodils and assorted cognate greenery is looking battered but very much alive:
Chives are doing extremely well- not sure how they taste but they look like happy chives:
And yours truly took the decadent step of standing on the cold muddy lawn in shorts and bare feet to gloat at and tease the melting snow behind (sorry about the quality but shooting myself has always been a challenge):
And so as is so often these days my thoughts turned to coffee. I’ve been seeing lately what I can get out of beans that aren’t necessarily renowned for their artisanal quality; we’re awash in good beans these days in Calgary but I’m still curious about what the lesser-knowns can give me. There’s a credo among baristas: “any bean, any machine,” or something like that, meaning that a good barista can get the best out of unexceptional beans and lesser quality machines. I have a very decent if quirky home espresso machine but am still curious about what will happen if I start to, or have to, buy the beans that I used to before the “third wave” crashed into town- for example, once upon a time I used to get beans from either Second Cup or from the Faema outlet in Toronto. What if I did that now, given what I know and being blessed with better equipment, machine and grinder-wise?
I decided to try this with beans from the silver bags (the beans behind the bar, not the stuff on the shelves) at my local Starbucks (15th Ave and 14 St SW). Now, I have no idea how fresh these beans are but am optimistic that they are a lot fresher than the prepackaged ones. I bought a half pound for $8.95, which is about par for the course for “better” espresso blends. Here’s the bag:
And they are, as expected, dark and oily as hell, which is not considered ideal (at all!) by espresso aficionados these days:
I ground at “6″ on my Rancilio Rocky, which is pretty fine and what I’ve found to be necessary for dark beans (likely because they’re more brittle and less dense, having been carbonised and all).
I pulled a shot with my naked portafilter to witness the extraction, and here is a film of the result:
Well. Hmmm. It looks really good. Beautiful mousetail extraction, nice striping, and it looks nice in the cup with variegated crema, and thick crema to boot. I tasted it with a patina of sugar to see how durable the crema is (to see if the sugar floats on the crema, in other words) and it tasted… not bad. Not not bad- it was good! Not the best shot I’ve ever had but better than many, with some expected chocolate notes but not that much charcoal and just a smidgen of brightness too; I’d have been happy to get this shot in any caffe.
So am I going to start getting coffee at Starbucks? Coffee beans, maybe, sometimes, sure. Espresso from their bar? Never. This was INCREDIBLY better, just ASTONISHINGLY better than the espresso I’ve actually purchased at Starbucks outlets themselves. This makes me happy because I like to see that I can do this, get a nice shot–a really nice shot–from beans that coffeegeeks deride as mediocre or worse. But it also pisses me off: If I can do this, why can’t Starbucks?
Posted in Calgary, Coffee, Uncategorized | 2 Comments »










