“The Wall.”
About 20 years ago, on what must have been the 9th or 10th of November, 1989, I got a call from my then-boyfriend Timm who asked if I was watching the news. Because, he said, “The Berlin Wall looks like Swiss cheese!” I’m pretty sure I had a TV at the time and must have paid some attention to this world-historical happening, but for some reason I didn’t feel all that moved by it. I’m curious when I reflect on this reaction, because in the last couple of years I’ve become an inveterate Berlinophile, but in 1989 I don’t recall wanting to jump on a plane or contact my friends in Germany about what was going on. I remember seeing pieces of the wall for sale in magazines and thinking that it would be amazing to get that tiny bit of the wall I’d written on, with a plain ink pen and probably covered over many times since, in the summer of 1981. But as I say, I don’t remember being particularly emotional on or around November 9, 2009. I can think of three explanations for this. First, what was happening in Berlin and Germany seemed inevitable after what had happened earlier at the Austrian-Hungarian border and with the “opening” effects of Glasnost and all that in the late ’80s. So maybe this just felt like an event in line with other changes happening in eastern Europe at that time; it’s sort of like asking if I’m shocked to hear about a new terrorist attack in Iraq, or some technological discovery. I was, I think, expecting that the Wall wouldn’t be around much longer.
Second, I had always despised Reagan and somewhat despised GHW Bush, and so I think that I was blocked, psychologically, from really being happy to celebrate a victory that, their supporters would argue, these Republican presidents helped orchestrate. Nowadays I’m still partisan (most people are) but I’d be happy to give credit where it’s due. Or to determine where the credit really belongs. Back then, maybe I wasn’t was forgiving, generous, or sophisticated. If this is Reagan’s legacy, even if his contribution was really a small one, then I’ll accept that. If it wasn’t his legacy, then that’s fine too, but I have to celebrate retrospectively, as I’m doing now.
Finally, I think I was unwilling to get too joyful about what was going on in Germany in 1989 because I was unbearably poor as a grad student and couldn’t fathom ever going back. I wasn’t, of course, thinking hard enough on those matters, but I think I accepted Europe as just too far away to waste much time thinking about.
Today things are different and I’m completely fascinated by and even absorbed in the Berlin (and German) post-1989 phenomenon and I am getting a lot of joy out of looking at pictures and videos about it and even researching The Wall per se. Amazing story, and I mean the WHOLE story, from the mid-1940s onwards. I entered that story in my 1981 Sommer in Deutschland, and thank goodness I have some visuals to share.
This is me at 17, with my perfectly-coiffed butt-front 1981 ‘do, snapped by Kim Hulsman-Wagner, of our group of 32 Indiana high school seniors-to-be. We spent a week in West Berlin (and so got to experience a bus ride via East Germany to get there from Krefeld) and one day in East Berlin. This shot is of the Brandenburg Gate from the east and it’s stark and very effective.
We crossed through the REAL Checkpoint Charlie to get from East to West Berlin:
And here’s my passport stamps, both at CC and at the East German border itself:
I took lots of pics of the wall as well, these all from the west side (for some reason I think these shots were taken near what’s now, and was prior to partition, Potsdamer Platz). This bit says “STOP: Freedom ends here”:
I have quite a few of these, all very much graffiti-marred (which was 100% permitted from the western side) and sombre.
We weren’t allowed to take many shots from the east side, but I’ll add this one, the Berliner Dom (cathedral) under renovation, a renovation that would likely have never been completed in the DDR:
Now, fast forward 26 years later (October of 2007) and consider this perspective on the Brandenburg Gate:
And the Berlin Cathedral:
I had really gorgeous weather for that trip, so part of what makes the newer shots so much nicer is the blue sky and of course the better image quality. But a huge thing is the PEOPLE. I had much worse weather on my more recent trip in February 2009, and even so, there is a great amount human activity and joy in these places. I have never felt so free as when I walked through the Brandenburg Gate on that 2007 visit, and that feeling brought home to me, finally, why I should have always cared about the fall of the Berlin Wall.











